Longtime international expedition kayaker Mike Hayward has paddled the world chasing rivers, from the Scottish Highlands to Africa. In his new book, he shares an impressive travelogue of paddling adventures, brought to life with reflections and photographs. In it, readers discover how teamwork, planning and expertise can merge into those few rare euphoric moments you can only find paddling, inspiring you to paddler around the next corner on your next adventure.
Hayward’s a good person to fuel all our inner fire. Having led expeditions around the globe, including first Ds in UK, Nepal and Sikkim, he’s paddled more than 300 rivers in 23 countries over 40 years and is still exploring by river, sea kayak, canoe and mountain bike. We caught up with him for his thoughts on his new book, what makes him tick and the state of paddling today.
Paddling Life: What do you like about kayak expeditions?
On an expedition the challenge is many-faceted. Finding your way down that three-dimensional moving maze is obviously the reason for going, but it’s accompanied by other barriers that have to be tackled and removed before you even get there. Finding the information about the river; collecting the correct kit and getting it there; bringing together a team of paddlers you can trust; coping with a new environment often with language difficulties…all that can be just as demanding. But then on a multiday trip, the rewards come from being with your mates, finding our way through that maze, and sharing the successes and sometimes near misses. On an expedition, you have time to engage with your fellow paddlers, to enjoy and relax because of the river. Sharing the whole brings such camaraderie.
Paddling Life: What have been some of your favorite trips?
I loved paddling in Corsica, which is bedrock heaven; however, all the runs are day trips. We also drove for six days to get to Eastern Turkey to paddle on the Coruh River, picking off some rivers on the way there and back.This was such a combination of everything that is great about paddling trips. I also led a team to Sikkim in 1993, where we explored some of the rivers and we assumed that we were the first team to paddle sections of the Lachung Chu and Teesta. Ajeet Baja of Snow Leopard Adventures did a lot of the leg work before the trip which made the logistics easier. We started paddling from 2,800 meters surrounded by snow-capped peaks, what a privilege to be there. Every day was a big challenge. We had to portage some sections on the Lachung Chu, but paddled most of the Teetsa on sight. It was a bold idea, but a great success, and so rewarding.
Paddling Life: What’s your favorite river out of all of them?
This has to be the Haut Tarn in the central Massif of France, an 8-km granite bedrock gorge from Pont-de Montvert to Florac. This section contains so many slides, falls and tricky drops but they all go, apart from two.There are a couple of sections about this classic river in my book. It only runs at Easter on snowmelt or after a suitable amount of rain.
Paddling Life: What was your closest call on a river?
Fortunately, I have never been pinned or had a major epic. I had bit of a problem in an innocuous mid-river stopper on the Fuy in Chile. I tried all I knew but ended swimming out.
Paddling Life: What’s your take on the state of kayaking today?
I’m super impressed.The kit is much better. Sharing knowledge and information is second nature to most. So many more ordinary paddlers are paddling higher grades, and the average bar has risen. Those paddlers that are pushing the limits of what is possible have a different mindset. Some are willing to risk lots on big falls. Paddling some huge volume stuff looks like madness to me, with the paddler taking many seconds of downtime while they get flushed under and through. It is so wacky. Being in control no longer seems to be the driving factor for some.
Paddling Life: How did you first get into paddling?
I did a bit at school, then started properly when I did outdoor education as part of my teacher training. Following that, I got a job in an outdoor center where some of the other guys were keen to get out and let me tag along. It all just grew from there.
Paddling Life: What do you like more…big water or creeks?
I started paddling rivers in Cumbria, we don’t have big water here. So I learned my skills and expertise on creeks, we call them becks here. I didn’t come across big volume paddling until I went to the Alps, with rivers like the Inn in Austria. So, I had to adapt what I knew to cope. So, if I had to choose it would be steep creeking for me.
Paddling Life: What gear do you use?
Currently I paddle a medium Dagger Mamba or medium Code, depending upon which river we are paddling or the water level. I use Mitchell Blades. My sea kayak is plastic Valley Etain; it’s just reliable and conformable. No need to worry about crunching a composite boat on rocks. I still paddle ‘Sherman,’ an old black Coleman canoe, which I won in a photography competition.
Paddling Life: What’s harder…paddling a hard run or writing a book?
Funny question…I don’t paddle so many hard runs these days, But I guess on a river I know what I am doing. Writing a book is much trickier, with so many learning curves and so many aspects that you don’t even consider before you start.
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